February 2013
2 posts
LUSTWORTHY : the lanvin moto jacket, fw 13
i’ve been searching for the perfect black leather jacket.
leave it to lanvin. from young proportions to offset grosgrain pulls …
want. need. desire.
LUSTWORTHY : rick owens fur gloves, fw 13
i mean, seriously? mink fingers?
LUSTWORTHY : neil barrett graphic sweatshirt, fw...
LUSTWORTHY : valentino fur trench, fw 13S
January 2013
29 posts
LUSTWORTHY : the lanvin trench/parka, fw 13
a key item from a seminal evolution in this brand,
this coat is everything you would expect in a classic camel overcoat,
mashed up with a perfectly youthful parka.
LUSTWORTHY : lanvin accessories, fw 13
seamed leather gloves.
metal clutches. for men.
white wellies. with a back zip.
and trainers. a new category for lanvin. nine different materials in every pair.
why nine? just cause.
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : RICK OWENS FW 13
fur. fur fur fur.
rick did men’s fur.
even in tanks and tunics :
plus, you know,
the usual collection of incredible silhouettes and such simple WEARABLE insightful design that you know how to wear even before you touch.
LUSTWORTHY : louis vuitton leopard print fur, fw...
LUSTWORTHY : the givenchy "frankenstein" bomber,...
a cross between mapplethorpe’s b&w bondage themes
and all american varsity jackets,
these are the “it” jacket of the season.
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : LANVIN FW 13
after last season’s black and white “punk” outing,
lanvin surprised again with a twist no one saw coming. wearability.
for a label known for it’s slim cuts and extreme tailoring (as well as insane pricing and stealth luxury), it was a welcome and surprising twist. i suspect it is less to do with making the line more commercial (which it surely will do) and more to do...
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : LOUIS VUITTON FW 13
i kind of heart kim jones.
he’s making staid luxury look … luxurious.
that’s mink lined cashmere. needle punched by hand to form the leopard pattern.
leopard is going to be big. across the board.
check out the double collars on these coats.
the leather jackets were cut from whole hides. one single hide per jacket.
and then … the vicious “garden...
LUSTWORTHY : bottega veneta's perfect PINK suit,...
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : VALENTINO FW 13
i like to think of this line as “CELINE FOR MEN”
because of the clean lines and sharp silhouettes? a little bit. maybe also for the capes.
maybe for the lush fur, more pattern than material, statement of luxury, but in color.
perhaps it’s the modern cuts and sharp suiting.
or perhaps it’s just that i can cram myself into CELINE and this is the closest i...
lustWORTHY : rick owens fur boots, fw 13
for that “madison avenue ponyskin in the UBER ride” kind of outdoors
LUSTWORTHY : louis vuitton "garden in hell" bag,...
want. need. desire.
LUSTWORTHY : the burberry heart print, fw 13
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : NEIL BARRETT FW 13
graphic patterns in leather and cashmere.
camel, black, and navy.
what more do you need? the man started Prada’s menswear … and just keeps getting better.
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : BERLUTI FW 13
for a company known initially for their fine shoes
and astronomical prices, berluti is rapidly making its mark in menswear.
fw 13 … flawless.
the photography is insane, but the luxury oozes from these clothes.
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE FW 13
former designer for lacoste,
current womenswear designer for hermes,
the man knows his way around adult clothing.
think clothing you wear without thought, with a sense of elegant restraint.
insanely large wraps suddenly look masculine. and who doesn’t want a blanket to wear out around the town?
denim is not denim. not jeans. more japanese workwear.
and this is perhaps the...
LUSTWORTHY : raf simons striped turtleneck, fw 13
pink. again.
want. need. desire.
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : BURBERRY FW 13
classics with an animal edge.
i want every coat.
these shows are never about innovation. they are about twists on clothing you want to wear. year over year.
LUSTWORTHY : the burberry latex trench, fw 13
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : GUCCI FW 13
color. masculine, simple, clean color.
that’s the way frida crosses from flash to desire. and gucci grows up.
as one showgoer said “you don’t have to explain these clothes. you just want them.”
LUSTWORTHY : mihara yasuhiro's brocade peacoat, fw...
LUSTWORTHY : mihara yasuhiro's cableknit puffa...
LUSTWORTHY : mihara yasuhiro's yakuza embroidered...
LUSTWORTHY : burberry's leopard lensed glasses, fw...
TRENDWATCH FW13 : colored collars
jil sander
prada
carven
TRENDWATCH FW13 : red suiting
GUCCI
Z ZEGNA
Margiela
jil sander
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : DRIES VAN NOTEN FW 13
like waking up hung over,
throwing on some luxe basics,
and walking to the corner for more to drink.
it works.
LUSTWORTHY : raf simons for adidas, fw 13
March 2012
5 posts
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : RAG AND BONE FW12
ombre evenings.
blanket stripe days.
i’m feeling lazy on this one. and i’m not going to buy any of it. so, there.
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : ACNE FW12
what started as a jean label with an AWFUL name has turned into one of fashion week’s most colorful and interesting men’s shows. for fall, the team turned out a parade of vivid, clashing, polyurethane (not leather) bombers, and new loafers. this was a new kind of fun. and fun in menswear … that’s a good thing now and then.
TO DIE : alexander mcqueen FW12 embroidered men's...
how much do i want these? so freakin much.
the concept of the smoking slipper is gaining speed in formalwear. grab a pair now. but not these. these are mine.
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : MIHARA YASUHIRO FW12
i have been in love with mihara yasuhiro’s clothing since i was forced into an insane pair of khakis with chainmail woven tuxedo stripes a few years back. the boys at Archive in san francisco are evil, they know what i want even before i do, and they kept throwing pieces by this artisinal japanese designer at me long before he was doing runway.
and whether the overdyed military jacket...
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : HERMES FW12
hermes is forever.
if this season seemed a bit lackluster, dominique nichinian is not to blame. she has consistently evolved the hermes man from a tie wearing, chic but bland, suit bound aristocrat into one of the chicest, most understated gentleman on the calendar. her work with prints have moved from ties to scarves to delicate prints on suede; her leathers now dominate in fabulous...
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : THOM BROWNE FW12
there was some long, rambling explanation about jocks meeting punks, and steroids mixing with rock and roll … i don’t know. it’s thom browne. we’re not going to wear this shit. so let’s just kick back and enjoy the spectacle that is a man unleashing his fetishes and fantasies on a global stage.
this stuff is going to be purchased by some japanese collectors and...
February 2012
14 posts
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : WTF VERSACE FW12
i really have no words.
wait. i have them now.
“DONATELLA. PUT DOWN THE CRACK PIPE AND DESIGN SOMETHING GOOD.”
that is all.
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : MARGIELA FW12
while everyone else raved about the innovative use of pleather,
the puffa coats made from garbage bags,
the classic shapes cut from industrial materials,
i’m going to focus on the real reason i love the house of margiela :
camel.
camel shearling teddy bear coats
with matching duffles.
camel fur vests with camel fur lined topcoats.
the runway was an explosion of tonal yum,
from...
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : DRIES VAN NOTEN FW12
dries does not always hit it out of the park.
but he always tries.
for that alone, i love him.
this showing was inspired by one part traditional tailoring (if a bit victorian), and one part sixties psychedelia … and the look certainly pushed the boundaries of the rich mix of pattern and layering that van noten is known for.
the prints were fantastic. hypnotic. and in the end, for me,...
TO DIE : alexander wang men's fw12 coat
just this coat. that is all.
go.
stop loitering. get me this coat, boy.
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : LOUIS VUITTON FW12
kim jones took over as head designer for vuitton’s men’s line just one season ago, so the fact that he sent out such a stunning collection caught many off guard. it shouldn’t have. the man is a genius at the art of stealth luxury, and as the camel coat above should show you … it’s a simple and complex as the perfect cut, the killer fabric, and most importantly,...
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : YSL FW12
stefano is my man.
black suiting. check.
leather. check.
crazy shoes. check.
and that one coat.
i plan on walking the marais in that.
seems about right.
OBJECT LESSON : you are tough. you are international. you can afford to wear leather fetish gear to a business meeting and not have anyone bat an eye.
TO DIE : givenchy red beaded wingtips
i have no idea why, but they make total sense to me.
maybe i have to many shoes.
and if you don’t get a bit of frisson from these beauties, you are not living your life big enough. kick off those high tops, and live like a dandy for a day.
won’t kill you. promise.
just try not to show up at the same event as i am with them on. that would be … unwise.
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : LANVIN FW12
i’m assuming i don’t have to explain lanvin to you.
the oldest french couture house, the re-invention under alber elbaz, lukas ossenjdriver?
the explosion in luxe crossed with athletic, the unapologetic use of women’s fabrics in menswear (grograin trim on your blazer? that’s lanvin. suede and patent on your sneakers? lanvin.)
if there is a show that pushes menswear...
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : BALMAIN FW12
the balmain man is always about the two thousand dollar jean (this season it’s red. sometimes in velvet), the military tinged blazer (this season highly embroidered.) and the thousand dollar tee shirt.
add a boot. make it red, white, or blue. and you’ve got fall.
it’s sexy. and it’s ridiculous.
OBJECT LESSON : if you have to ask, you can’t afford...
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : RICK OWENS FW12
fred astaire.
no, seriously. that’s what rick owens was using as inspiration. hence, the stream of high waisted, carrot shaped black pants, white turtlenecks, and motion that swarmed down his runway.
being rick, it was woven deeply into his ethos. dark, street, a little goth (though i hate when people use that around his work. he is so much more complex than that. his cuts alone...
TO DIE : the back of that raf simons coat
i mean, is that ikat printed cowskin? can i touch it and see?
OBJECT LESSON : that line also works as a pick up in certain east village bars.
RUNWAY RUNDOWN : BERLUTI FW12
berluti started as a shoe company. a very very expensive shoe company.
this was their foray into menswear.
the photography for the lookbook alone wins. i just want to try on those men.
wait. clothes. i mean clothes.
sort of.
regardless, steeped in the wines and navys of fall, this promises to be an interesting addition. let’s watch.
OBJECT LESSON : spendy shoes =...
